One of the highlights of my last trip to Japan was surfing with my brother.  Just to see him excited about the surf culture was cool.  He was the first one in the water, and the last one out.  

This was back in March when we would take Jaco for a walk.  Dogs still scare me so I’m always walking way in the back.  

Good to see Japanese picking up their dogs poop.  Not everyone does it in Hawaii so that’s why I step in it all the time.  

I miss these Japanese delicious and healthy lunches.  

Garage talk.  Nice car Naohiro!  

This photo popped up on my memories.  Every time I see Mateus’ face, it makes me happy.  I think it’s time for us to surf again!

November and still Summer swells and warm weather.

Good morning 4:45am.
North shore chest high and good.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds back at 20mph.
Sunny, showers, and getting cooler.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

The waves were onshore this afternoon but after looking at the clouds starting to move off shore, it was just a matter of time the waves will be straight offshore and barreling.  I asked Hashimoto-san if he wanted a challenge.  Kaiser’s is always a challenge because it’s powerful, shallow, and barreling.

Since the waves were junk before we paddled out, there were only 3 surfers.  In 10 minutes, the waves went from junky to epic!

Hashimoto-san loved the challenge.  Compared to Bowls, this was high level surfing.

Pretty nice shot passing by on the rights.  Staying focused and keeping calm.

It’s been a while since I got barreled so today was a success!   We never expected anything but got everything!  Lucky timing…