Yesterday once more:  Carter at the Bowl.

Good morning 4:20am.
North shore head high and good.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light trade winds so clean conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I was really looking forward to surfing this morning.  I didn’t care how the waves were because I just wanted to ride something different.  Going super fast on a twin fin for the past month I wanted to slow things down.

An amazing full moon lighting up the dark.

Paddling out towards the moon is my favorite.  It’s so peaceful.

Waves were good again.  Still chest high and still perfect conditions.

Rights were good too.

This 7’1 single fin shaped by Glenn Minami back in 1981 is magic.  So easy to take off, so easy to turn, and so fun to ride.  I feel like I went back into the 80’s again!

Indonesia is so big that if you know a local surfer, maybe, or maybe not, he will tell you about a secret spot.  In this case, he showed us a secrets spot where there was no surfers, no concrete, and nobody around for miles.  I sat on the beach watching our group enjoying our special session.  

Deco san has a very good ocean sense.  She would go out to any spot and find good waves.  And once on it, ride it very well.

She’s riding a Rob Machado custom board that looks like magic.

Kimura-san and his happy face.  Haha.

Tokura-san cool as always.

Matsu hooked on the foil.