Hawaii International Film Festival Red Carpet:  Congratulations Pacific Mother!  Great film, great actress, great mother, and great friend!  So proud of you Judy-chan!

Good morning 3:15am.
North shore chest high and coming up this evening.
Ala Moana waist high and good. South swell on Tuesday.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light winds so perfect morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Check out these drone shots Matsu took at Yoyo’s.  Now it’s pretty easy to explain things.  Yoyo’s was really big the whole time we were there so one of my friends in Hawaii asked me, “why didn’t you guys surf in the inside?”  As you can see, there is no inside.  The inside is dry reef!!!

The reefs in Indonesia are so cool.  They have these little channels going through the lineup.  I use those channels as guides to paddle out, and paddle in.  You can’t see it when you’re actually in the water, so you have to go by feel.  It will suck you out, and suck you in!  Just don’t miss it…

Every morning we would wake up early in Wakayama and take a 30 minute walk.  Stretch on the beach, and observe nature.  

Pretty crazy how these crabs can live so far inland.  I always wonder if you can eat them?  

These snowboard photos popped up on my iPhone.  Made me want to go back and play in the powder snow in Niseko again!  

Next time I’ll be sure to take warmer inner clothes because last time I almost froze to death.  Minus 18 degrees celsius with one tshirt was my problem.  Lessons learned…

Yesterday Once More:  John O in your FACE!

Always good surfing with you Brother!