We were surfing really early in the morning yesterday.  As you can see, it’s pretty magical.  It’s still dark and there have been a lot of shark sightings recently.  So every movement in the ocean draws attention.  

I was waiting for a wave and something came up from below and banged my board.  I had no idea what it was but thought it could be a shark, monk seal, or turtle.  Thank goodness it was just a turtle that was probably daydreaming.  Turtles are usually smarter than that so I was surprised he hit my board.  

And I’m sure he was surprised too.  And probably mad.  Haha.  I thought he was going to bite my foot after that.

Then he popped his head up right in front of me, looked me in the eye, took a deep breath, and went back to his paradise.  Such a cool encounter.

Hey Mr. Turtle, you freaking scared me a little!!!

Epic conditions continue…

Good morning 3:10am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Another beautiful morning in Hawaii.  We paddled out really early again but went to surf somewhere else.  Something different is always good.   

That was a great call because that somewhere else was so good!  Different wave and different vibe.  

It’s fun watching this girl being so connected to the ocean.  We can surf anywhere on this island and she’ll figure the wave out pretty quickly.   

And the turns are getting better and better.  Smiling all the way.

I’m sure she can’t will till tomorrow.  Neither can I.