Honu Close Encounter

92

We were surfing really early in the morning yesterday.  As you can see, it’s pretty magical.  It’s still dark and there have been a lot of shark sightings recently.  So every movement in the ocean draws attention.  

I was waiting for a wave and something came up from below and banged my board.  I had no idea what it was but thought it could be a shark, monk seal, or turtle.  Thank goodness it was just a turtle that was probably daydreaming.  Turtles are usually smarter than that so I was surprised he hit my board.  

And I’m sure he was surprised too.  And probably mad.  Haha.  I thought he was going to bite my foot after that.

Then he popped his head up right in front of me, looked me in the eye, took a deep breath, and went back to his paradise.  Such a cool encounter.

Hey Mr. Turtle, you freaking scared me a little!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide