NO WAVES? IT’S OK! HAVE FUN!!!
KONNO VIDEO SAIKO!
THANK YOU TAIZO-SAN…..

good evening. i jumped on the scale 2 days ago and i gained 10 kilos since i came to japan. and after kyoto, i think i gained a lot more. so many things have been happening that i really can’t keep up anymore. good thing i have a blog so i can remember things that just happened yesterday. i’m not kidding….

we went for a little free dive in some pretty clean water. straight from the water to the bbq. kyoto style. can’t beat that!!!

gold! i’ve been eating so much of these things that it’s starting to taste like plain rice. haha…

surfer girls in kyoto! the vibe is good, the people are cool, and the photos and article coming out in vol. 4 is going to be freaking awesome!!!

it’s good to have the 8th generation kimura-san family enjoying kyoto with us. naohiro is on the far left. i knew this kid when he probably didn’t even have hair on his balls yet. now to see him a grown family man with a beautiful wife and kids blows me away. i was shooting this photo and thinking on what a perfect family this is. and the cool thing about naohiro coming on this trip is that we went free diving for the first time. i think he liked it….

ieki-san sent me an email 3 weeks ago asking where i was because he wanted to send me grapes and japanese pear. i really didn’t know where the heck i was going to be so i didn’t email him back with an address. it worked out fine because i had no clue i was going to make it down to tango. it feels better to pick something up so sweet, rather than to have it sent. thank you ieki-san for the sweet grapes and pear. oh, and thanks for the new tshirt. see you again!!!

morigen-san is the president of the surf rider foundation, owner of soldier blue surf shop, owner or morigen ryokan, go-naminori supporter, and one of the funniest guys you’ll ever meet. there’s never a dull moment in kyoto with this man…. i want to thank morigen and all the friendly surfers in kyoto for making our trip a memorable one! see you again soon!!!
**CLICK HERE FOR MORIGEN BLOG….

good morning. been getting a lot of emails and comments about the mentawai’s. first of all, the waves aren’t good everyday. the last 2 years, we actually scored and i mean scored. last year we surfed it i heard was the best day of 2009 and this year in 2010, i can’t imagine the waves getting any better. so don’t book a trip to the mentawai’s and expect to score. you have to go there on the right swell direction, right wind direction, and right tide. and guess what? i know exactly when to pull up there because i kept the swell charts from last year and this year.
after the good swell, we were boating around surfing other spots talking to other surfers about the big day. some guys were really bummed when i told them how good it was. one aussie guy didn’t believe me and told his mates that there was no way it was that big. well aussie, i couldn’t care less if you believe me or not. we know what we got and that’s all that matters.
anyway, check out the past 2 years we scored. and keep in mind that we were surfing when it was epic. so the video i took was when the waves were good, but not as good as when we were out there.
2009 FIRST SWELL….

2010 FIRST SWELL…

2011? WE SHALL SEE….