Yesterday once more:  The endless ride…

Good morning 4am.
North shore 15-20′ and dangerous.
Ala Moana chest high and bumpy.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
South/West winds at 10mph this morning.
Sun, clouds, rain, and hazy.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Strong onshore winds this morning at Bowls but it didn’t stop us from surfing.  Sunny sky and nobody out.  

Round 1:  Kamobayashi-san is very strong minded.  Not too many surfers can endure the conditions we had today.  Lots of bumps, lots of waves breaking in front of us, and lots of wind in your face.  But he kept on going and going.  This is surfing…

So stoked to see surfers enjoying the ride till the end like this.  This is surfing…

Round 2:  Nakahodo-san and I drove an hour to the other side of the island looking for the perfect wave.  Guess what?  Yes, we found it.  Sunny, overhead, offshore, and as perfect as can be.  I honestly thought we were on a remote island off Indonesia.  There was nobody when we paddled out.  Later, 2 local guys paddled out and one of them told me “this happens here only once a year.”  It was that rare, and that good.  We had the best session ever and when we got in, Nakahodo-san told me that this was his best session since we started surfing together 10 years ago.  Then he asked me the name of the surf spot and I told him, “DON’T ASK!!!”  Todays spot is super secret and only the locals on that side know about it.  No photos, no GPS, and no explanation needed.  This is surfing…

Yesterday once more:  Surfing fun Bowls with Ooki-san!

Good morning 4:20am.
North shore still solid 10-12′ today.
Ala Moana chest high and bumpy.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
South winds at 10mph.
Sun, clouds, haze, and showers.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!