good morning. 6:15 am and the waves are pretty much flat. it’s the smallest i’ve seen it in a while in town. looks like winter season. you can find a waist high wave if you wait long enough. if you want a little bigger wave, you’ll have to go around the corner to sandy beach. i’m going surfing anyway!!!
i’ve been watching closely the weather charts off the philippines and there are no typhoons. it’s already the end if july and usually there are about 10 or so. this year has to be the slowest ever. the weather guys say this typhoon season is going to be late. um… i’m on standby and was planning to go back tomorrow but my friends are saying “it’s freakin hot in japan and the waves are flat, you should stay in hawaii.” i’ll take their advise but as soon as i see something, i’m on a flight because i don’t want to miss the first swell of the year….

i was a lucky guy and got a spread in surfing magazine before. this is shikoku. this is where my eyes are set on right now. i still can’t forget that day! the waves were 8-10′ and BARRELING!!! i was riding a 7’0 gun and that board ended up breaking in 2 pieces. chris van lennep took this photo while swimming with his fish eye camera in the huge surf. at that time, i thought he was nuts!!!

one of the coolest things about traveling is experiencing the culture and the people. til the day i die, i will never forget the smiles on these kids faces when we pulled up to their little village on a remote island off the philippines. when they seen us, they fan down the mountain like ants. they couldn’t speak our language, we couldn’t speak theirs. but we communicated through our smiles. who said the philippines is dangerous? to me, it’s one of the friendliest places on earth…

luma is on the left. she’s been my personal chef when ever i go to the philippines. she can cook you anything and every meal feels like a 5 star restaurant. abbey is on the right. she was a guest on our boat and was really kind to all of us. gosh, i miss the philippines and i think this is the year to go back. i’m already making some calls and sending emails to make it happen…
*and last, HAPPY BIRTHDAY KAIRI!!!

COMING JULY 26!!! SAIKO!!!!

i went for a few beers at kanpai’s last night. when i was about to park my car, i seen this lady with a maroon colored car backing out of a stall. she stopped, got out, took a look at this nice mercedes benz, laughed, got back in her car, and left. so me being the investigator i am, i got out of my car, looked at what she looked at, and seen these scratches on the mercedes. that lady hit the car and left!! OMG!!! so i looked down the street and see her speed away. i got a glance of her car. it was a maroon hundai small sized SUV. her driver back bumper is scratched up with silver paint on it. i got a glance at the license plate but it was so far that i probably read it wrong. PYT 371? she was a white lady in her late 30’s or early 40’s, curly hair down past her shoulders, and just walked out of kanpai’s at 5:50 pm yesterday evening. she was probably drunk because kanpai’s is a place to kanpai[:????????????:].

the lady’s car looked kind of like this. but a it was kind of dirty.

the poor owner of this mercedes probably was drunk too and has no clue. oh shucks, i better go out and look at my car too. haha….
but if you have any information, don’t call me. CALL HPD!!! wow, that rhymes… DON’T CALL ME[:????$B”L(B?:][:????$B”L(B?:][:????$B”L(B?:] CALL HPD[:????$B”L(B?:][:????$B”L(B?:][:????$B”L(B?:] haha…
** i got this comment from a kid in australia that checked out one of my videos. check it out….
surfing queens was harder than i thought . the peaks kept on shifting from left to right. i got confused one time and me and one of the locals (a white american) kind of collided and it was my fault. he was quite aggressive and told me if i did it to the wrong guy out he’d get really pissed off. i didn’t know that they could get so aggressive at waikiki. waikiki is awesome, but i hate how they get a bit too serious about their surfing sometimes. shit happens.

hey nick from australia, first, thanks for the comment. i’m glad you finally got to surf queen’s. second, i’m sorry you had a bad experience out there. yeah, some locals can be aggressive out there. i think locals in waikiki should understand more that waikiki is our tourist attraction. if tourists like you come over, they should welcome you instead being aggressive. i think the government should arrest locals that pick on tourists. if it wasn’t for people like you, hawaii would be finished. as a surfer, i find that no matter where you surf, people can be aggressive. want my advise? go take karate just like how the kid did it in the new movie. start by waxing your surfboard. “WAX ON, WAX OFF, WAX ON, WAX OFF….” i ain’t joking. i once seen this local that kept on picking on this little skinny japanese kid, the kid came back a year later and kicked that locals ass in front of everybody. i paddled up to him and shook his hand. and if karate doesn’t work for you, i’ll teach you how to free dive. if you can hold your breath for 3 minutes, anybody would be a fool to pick on you. all you do is grab the guys hair, pull him underwater and take him down 20′ or so. believe me, that works. WAIT!! SORRY DUDE. forget karate and free diving. just tell the guy sorry and paddle away. that’s what my mom taught me. sometimes it works, and sometimes it doesn’t…. PEACE[:?????$B!x(B???:]
anyway, hawaii is usually a friendly place. don’t let one aggressive local ruin your vacation. surf happy, and take home only those experiences. like you said, “SHIT HAPPENS” and it could happen anywhere in the world. keep up the good vibe and if you ever see me in the water, paddle up and introduce yourself. i’ll give you a wave dude… mahalo.