salamat pagi, good morning from indonesia! today is the big day of the international grom contest at changu. they boys are all in it and i’ll be shooting the whole event so stay tuned for photos and results.
yesterday, we went back to bali escondido beach in search of big sandbar barrels. and big it was. the boys were ripping. and the girls too. chigusa and her 3 young bb girls came with us and scored!!! up until now, i took my best water shot i’ve ever taken in my life. it’s of aya-chan, the 14 year old bb ripper. it’s still in my camera because i didn’t have time to download it. it was either sit in my room working, or go for a massage. a massage it was.
i’m seeing a different side of bali that i’ve never seen before and i’m kind of excited. i love it her. and so does the kids. it’s a surfers paradise!!
here are some photos from the other day at keramas..

this is japanese legend surfer sakamoto-san. great history of surfing!!!

and this is kimura-san. one of the nicest most generous guys in the world!!
well, gotta run. be back soon….
have a nice hot day!!!
by the way, i broke the only 1 brand new surfboard i brought to bali. shock!!! i’m so lucky that sugimoto-san dropped off my backup boards. now i’m back in action again….

We Surf.
We Eat.
We Surf.
We Eat.
We Sleep.
Good Day!

good evening. another long hot day here in bali. it’s been a while since i’ve sweated like this. good thing we have air conditioner or i’d lose weight everyday. well, day 2 has been great. all started off with surf at a secret beach break that’s not on the surf maps of bali yet..

early morning surf check…

we pulled up to this secret beach break early this morning. barrels and barrels of fun!! check out seth getting barreled… as i was watching, i was trying to figure out where i’d seen a beach break like this before….

this is mao terashima from wakayama. i remember this little kid when he just started surfing. i was really surprised on his progress. he was ripping!!!

isaiah’s been trying to do this superman trick. i think this is the one they do on motocross motorcycles? flying high…
oh, now i remember where this beach break reminds me of…. it’s like puerto escondido in mexico!!! yeah, a lot of barrels and if you find one, it could be the best beach break barrel of your life. and if you don’t find one, you could break your board in a second. i wish we had one of these beach breaks in hawaii. i bet everyone wishes….
anyway, we’ve been surfing, eating, surfing, eating, surfing, and eating. i’m full of surfing, and full of eating….