READY!!! SEE YOU IN BALI!!!

good morning. 6:15 am monday. i bet the waves are good all around the island today but i’m not going to check. why suffer? if it’s good, i’m going to want to surf, and probably will. then if i miss my flight or something, i’ll be in big trouble. i’m packed and ready to go. bali, here i come!!! have a nice day!!!

i drove by diamond head yesterday to check the waves. it was still big but the winds were weird. so instead of driving down to ala moana park, trying to find parking, paddling out and surfing with 40 people, getting sunburned, and getting more surfed out than i already am, i just turned around and went home. took a much needed nap, and finished up packing. good call…

my north shore 09-10 season started off with this back in october. my first barrel!!!
it was a long season but it’s finally over…
otsukaresama deshita means “nice work” and you usually say this to japanese people after a hard day of work, or after a great surf session.
another year of barrels, broken boards, near drownings, and tons of memories…

and this is how my north shore 09-10 season ended. a relaxing day in waikiki!!!
can you believe you can go surf big dangerous waves on the north shore and come back to this? only in hawaii…

good evening. wow, what another good day of surf in hawaii. i thought the waves couldn’t get any bigger than yesterday but i was wrong. i caught a freak set that broke across the big rights/concessions channel. the biggest and strongest south swell in a while….
i skipped round 2 because the winds were weird. after getting barreled yesterday with the stiff off shore winds, i got spoiled. plus, if i got out in the sun again, my skin off my black face will probably peel off. i’ll be in bali getting sunburned even more in 2 days so i better get some shade. talking about bali, surf, dive, suckling pork, crab, bintang, and a lot of massages… yeah!! my vacation has finally come!!!

i woke up early so i’d figure instead of waiting at home until it gets lighted, i’d wait in the water. i paddled out at pitch dark and i could see guys in the parking lot and even on the guys on the beach on standby mode. i did my standby out in the dark lineup and it felt cool surfing under the stars…

after my morning session, i was driving home thinking what a great start to my day. the sun just came up and i was already done with round 1. felt pretty fresh and excited…

i have a pair of nike shoes. i think i paid $70 for it a couple of years ago and only wore it a few times. when i put it on the other day, something strange happened….

the whole bottom came off. oh my gosh!! i think who ever nike paid to glue my shoe together in china either forgot, or missed this one. do you think i can exchange this?
anyway, i’m off tomorrow and have so much luggage that i need a cart to pull it along. getting from place to place is the junk part of traveling but as soon as you get there and catch your first wave, it’s all worth it. see you guys around somewhere….