good evening. jumped in the water before 7:30 am this morning. kaisers looked good so i paddled out there first, surfed it for 1 hour, then paddled down to rockpiles and surfed it there for 1 hour. then seen bowls empty so paddled down there and surfed for 2 hours. i got out of the water past 11:30 am and i don’t remember the last time i surfed so long. it was hot, but cold. hot sun that sunburned my face, and cold wind that made me shiver. but all in all, i had an awesome session and caught some good waves…

i got new boards but been too busy to put stickers and wax it up so i pulled out my thunderbird from my garage. this board is 5’8 and works so dam good. i could surf for 10 hours straight on this board….

after a long surf session, my body needs to fuel up. so i headed to cooke street diner and ordered the shoyu chicken/beef stew plate. then my friend down there gave some korean spicy chicken to go along… oishikatta!!!

then i needed something sweet so where do i go? to waiola shave and ordered a strawberry shave ice with ice cream and azuki beans. after i ate it, i was cold again…. shivering cold[:???:][:???:]
then i headed to waikiki, grabbed a stand up paddleboard, and paddled around for 2 hours. i caught some nice long waves and had so much fun!! great exercise…

when ever i see a moon fish, i always flash back to the time i seen the hugest sun fish in indonesia. i went down and almost speared the thing because i thought it would taste like these moon fish we have in hawaii. good thing i didn’t because that fish was the diving attraction of the island we dove off. they look the same but just different color. we call the moon fish “opah” and if you see it on a menu in a fine dining restaurant in hawaii, expect to pay $40 for a small piece…..
**anyway, i’m so burnt out. tired and need some shade and sleep. but once the sun comes out tomorrow, i’ll be doing the same thing. i have to enjoy and maximize my last 2 days here in paradise before i go to another paradise. “barrel paradise”….. it takes 2 days to get to bali but it’s worth it!!! good night…

Get Warm!!
Eat Pho!!

good morning. 6 am aloha friday. surfed and paddle boarded yesterday and will probably do the same today. i’ve been eating healthy, haven’t touched a beer in a long time, been doing yoga, and feel great. almost packed up but have a problem. spearguns are now illegal to take into padang international airport. i have 3 i was taking and now i have to figure out a way to get it in. does anybody know if i can send them from bali to padang? how much it will cost, and how long it will take? please let me know because going on a boat trip without my spearguns is like going on a boat trip without my surfboards. HELP!!
wow, i’m checking the waves now and bowls looks really clean and fun. looks bigger and better than yesterday. seen a 2 footer just peel perfectly all the way through the lineup with nobody on it. see you out there!!

when i was at tracks the other day, i pulled my car up and when i got out, something smelt funny. i looked down at my feet and seen the most disgusting thing. a pig carcass. yeah, some pig hunters caught a pig in the mountains, went to tracks, and dumped the skin and guts, and took home the pork.
my question is: why would you dump such a thing at a beautiful beach that kids and families enjoy everyday?

this surfer pulled over and started to bury it with the sand. this local said to me “gosh, how the hell can anybody do something like this?” and shook his head….

these guys buried the stinky pig and hopefully the smell will go away in a month or so. or maybe 3 months or so….
**who ever did this couldn’t be a surfer, fisherman, diver, or anybody that has anything to do with the ocean. if you love the ocean as much as we do, you won’t do something foolish like this. next time, at least throw it in the ocean so the sharks can eat it, or throw it in the mountains so the tigers can eat it, or throw it in your enemies back yard. or better yet, throw it in the rubbish can where it belongs. not on the white sandy beaches of hawaii….. mahalo[:?????$B!x(B???:]