good evening. gosh, what a long ass day. i went early morning to the north shore because when i checked it, it looked good. but when i got there, it got weird and junky, and crowded. no surf, headed back to town. waste gas. speaking of gas, it went up 20 cents/gallon since last week. crazy!! on the way back to town, my brother them were on the way for a dive. i was on it. took the likelike and headed to kaneohe. the water was still a little dirty and the current was kind of strong so it wasn’t a good day to dive. we went for a deep dive first looking for big fish. nobody home. so we headed to this reef to poke some reef fish…. gosh, i felt good today. dove 60′ no problem. all that training in okinawa and bali payed off. especially heading into big wave season…

speaking of big waves, check out puerto escondido that last big south swell. nuts…. i still get nightmares about that place…

and this was chile on that same last swell. so here it is, tahiti 15′, mexico 12′, chile 20′, hawaii 4′. 4′? yeah. that sucks right? i always tell my friends that hawaii is the last place to be if you want to surf real south swells…. and not to mention, it wasn’t only 4′ here, it was onshore too…..

town 7am, north shore 8am, on my boat in the middle of the ocean on the east side, 10am… busy morning but worth it. how’s the backside of this mountain. i bet you don’t know where this is?

got dinner? yes, as fresh as it gets… the top one is an “uhu” or parrot fish. that’s going to be stuffed with goodies and put on the barbecue. i speared this uhu and it ran into a hole and died. i tried to look for it but a huge ass morey eel almost bit my ear so i was out of there. then my friend shane found the uhu floating later. thanks shane.. the bottom one is called “lai” or leather back. it’s pronounced “lye”. this one is going on the frying pan. and i ain’t lying…. got it?? haha. i just changed the setup on my gun so i was missing fish all day. i usually don’t spear lai but i wanted to practice on something i can eat. this was a pretty big one so i lined him up point blank in the head, he was about 6 inches off the tip of my spear. i fired and got the best shot ever. you can’t even see where my spear went in. can you? try to look closely at the tail. i got him at the tip of his tail. that’s how accurate my gun is. that ain’t no lai. right now, my picasso gun sucks and it’s all my fault. when i first got it stock, i could shoot a fish in the head with my eyes closed. but after is modified it, i can’t shoot an elephant with it. not even close. so for right now, the fish are lucky. but when my new gun gets to hawaii, sayonara. i also found a big tako doing a tako dance on the side of me when i was on the bottom stalking a fish. he swam up to me and stood on his 8 legs. the fish ended up running away so i stuck my spear under the tako’s legs, tickled him, and brought him up. perfect for tako poke. oh, picked up this nice shell too. forgot to take a photo of it. i’ll show it to you later. it’s a keeper.. anyway, it was a long day and i still have a lot of water in my head…. goodnight….

and before i sleep, i’m eating bubbies green tea ice cream. the best in the world. and i ain’t lai-ing… haha… i better go sleep. oyasuminasai…
**by the way, the triple crown kicked off today at haleiwa. sunny garcia went off…. no lie.. CLICK HERE FOR HIGHLIGHTS….

good morning. 6:30am on this holiday monday in hawaii. no winds, sunny skies, and perfect waves on the north shore. 2 guys out at pipe, 4 out at rocky point. that’s for now. it’s going to get packed for sure. get on it before the winds come onshore. town is knee/waist high. 5 guys at rockpiles and 4 guys out at bowls. surf or dive? still thinking but either way, i’m going in the water. have a nice day….

seth just got his new minami’s….

and he loves them….

power surfing….. micah stepped it up too. he’s turning into a north shore local. he surfs up there more than me already. i’ll give him another year or two and he’ll be dropping in on me at pipe. just like his dad use to do. haha….

i almost fell asleep on the long drive home yesterday. then 30 bikes or so flew past me and scared the shit out of me. too loud guys..

alyssa has her driving permit so i let her drive my car yesterday. she drives like a grandma… haha… i was teasing her but i shouldn’t be…. sorry alyssa. safety driving please….

and get this. it’s christmas in japan already. seiji-san from ‘Ikaika” sent me this photo yesterday from tokyo disneyland. i love christmas. makes me happy….
TRIPLE CROWN ON TODAY!!!. check out The $740,000 Vans Triple Crown of Surfing Schedule:


MEN:
Reef Hawaiian Pro, Haleiwa, Nov. 12-24 (6* WQS)
O’Neill World Cup of Surfing, Sunset Bch, Nov.25-Dec.6 (6*WQS)
Billabong Pipeline Masters, Pipeline, Dec. 8-20 (WCT)
WOMEN:
Reef Hawaiian Pro, Haleiwa, Nov. 12-24 (6*WQS)
Roxy Pro, Sunset Beach, Nov. 25-Dec.6 (WCT)
Billabong Pro Maui, Honolua Bay, Maui, Dec. 8-20 (WCT)

good evening. a super long day. gosh, the traffic on the north shore is crazy. on the way back to town, it was stop and go from the stop light at haleiwa all the way until lani’s. gas went up 15 cents a gallon overnight. a lot of rental cars in the north shore with huge board bags on the roof. winter season is in full swing. all we need is big waves now. oh, and speaking about rental cars, prices went up this year again. i just booked one for a friend and it cost $1725/month including insurance. i remember it was $975 a few years ago. and to rent a house on the beach cost $10,000/month. nuts. is it inflation? or is it greed? either or, i’m glad i live here and don’t have to pay crazy money like that….

last night was the first game i went to this season. i was a little worried because the last UH football game i went to, we lost. so i thought i was a jinx. the stadium was going wild and you could barely hear anything. then in the 3rd quarter, our star quarterback colt brennan got hurt, everything went silent. and it was pretty scary when he didn’t get up and all the players went down on their knees. he left the game and went to the hospital. then all hell broke lose. there were fights breaking out all around the place. fans fighting fans. #31 on the other team hit colt and there was a bounty on his ass. i was getting text messages from friends saying terrible things about him. gosh, if #31 was walking around in waikiki lastnight, i’m sure he would get mobbed…. but all in all, we won and colt is ok so i’m happy. been watching the games on tv and gosh, what a difference. especially when you got the best seats in the house on the 50 yard line. can’t compare the adrenaline. can’t wait till the next game…. go warriors!!! by the way, did you know there’s a bar inside the stadium? they put a tent up in the corner with tv screens, music, and beautiful servers. we went to check it out at half time and almost forgot to take our seats for the second half. as i was leaving the game, i was thinking how nuts hawaii fans are. there seems to always be fights and that’s when we win. imagine if we lost. oh my gosh… run forest run….

went to eat lunch with kelia and alyssa today. these two girls are classic…. here they are eating a mahi mahi plate from ted’s bakery….

this past few days, v-land’s been the spot. epic, crowded, and super fun. today the groms were taking over. can’t wait for tomorrow…

my nephew josh was on fire today. the last time i surfed with him out at v-land, he was way in the inside catching the leftovers. today, that kid was at the peak, calling guys off, and getting barreled. then when he came out of the barrel, he would do the biggest power snap. to surf good, you need confidence, and confidence is what josh has now… go josh…

shinpei and some of the japanese boys were out. they were getting their fair share and ripping. since i got back from the philippines, we’ve gotten 5 emails from people asking more about shinpei. all girls. i told them that shinpei is my brother. haha… hope to get shinpei in a go-naminori interview soon….

rob machado is the coolest pro surfer you will ever meet. super humble, sincere, and respected by everybody. i can see why he has millions of fans around the world. he paddled out on his favorite 5’2, ripped the shit out of the waves… he just got here 2 days ago and you will be seeing a lot of him on the north shore.. well, that’s if your lucky. rob is a hard guy to spot….

pro surfers and pro bodyboarders from all around the world are here. don’t you just love hawaii? i do… good night….