People are wondering why there are so many shark sightings recently.  Sharks have always been around.  It’s just that everyone has a camera now.  To me, a shark coming up trying to bite my boat is normal.  

It’s the windy and wild days like these that will make you a stronger surfer.  So if you want to get good, you better challenge yourself.

Boat trip snack time! 

I’ve been surfing my whole life and I’m having the best time right now.  Getting old is pretty cool!    

The last typhoon in Japan, Tokura-san caught this magical wave at a secret river mouth.  At 74 years old, I think that is so amazing.  It reminds me of the times we went on surf trips around the world.  I would always tell myself “when I get older, I want to surf and enjoy my life the same way Tokura-san does.”  And till this day, I still feel the same.  Very inspired.  Keep on surfing Tokura-san!!!

Let’s Go-Naminori!

Good morning 3am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Lighter trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Bowls was really good again this morning.  Perfect conditions and nice long rides.  I was yelling to this girl to “GO” but she couldn’t catch it.  Bummer for her but that ended up being one of my best waves.  Thank you girl!  

Round 2 was at Big Rights.  The girls were nervous because it was their first time out there.  It was a very quite paddle out.  Silence the whole way.  Haha. 

This girl learned how hollow the waves are.  The take off is really steep.

And once you stand up, the wave is so hollow that it will barrel over your head.  Just like this.  I don’t think she even knew she got barreled?  Haha. 

Want to wish Toda-san a Happy Birthday!  Hope you have a wonderful year ahead!