Sunday December14日 2025年

Forty Minutes Frozen

Another beautiful morning.  Parking lot empty as we get ready for a super session.

I waited in the inside and turned on my camera.  It went on, then started beeping loud, and just froze.  It broke!!!

Well, I though it broke.  The screen said “shutting down” but apparently it continued to film for the next 40 minutes.  Here I was trying to fix it.  I ended up hitting it hard but it was still frozen.

7 minutes later, I got a shot of the sky.

9 minutes later, I got this underwater shot.

Then I got shots on a few of my waves.  Yes, it was this perfect.

40 minutes of filming I never thought would happen.  My camera might be broken, but at least it filmed it’s last session with it.

Need Each Other

Dove sent me this rash guard last year but I forgot where I put it.  I just found it in my boat and it ended up being a lifesaver.  Good for sunburn and good for jellyfish stings.  I love it!  

I am very meticulous when it comes to my motors.  When you’re in-between islands in big waves and treacherous conditions, your life literally depends on it.  A few things went wrong but now after troubleshooting and fixing it, I learned a lot.  And knowing what I know now makes me feel a lot more comfortable when I’m out there.       

This was one of the most beautiful moon rises I’ve ever experienced.  And I’m hoping for more to come.  

South swell continues.  Everybody is pretty stoked!

No need iPads or iPhones to enjoy time with the kids.  Just need each other…

July 12, 2023 Hawaii Surf Report

Yesterday once more:  Epic!

Good morning 3:15am.
Ala Moana shoulder high and good.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!