We drove out in the dark this morning to the North shore. Nobody out at this secret spot and the waves were perfect! Head high and very calm. After all the practice at Bowls this past week, my student was ready! He caught over 15 waves and not one wipeout!
On the North shore, you’re going 2x faster, and your adrenaline is rushing 5x more. It’s hard to explain how good it feels.
Today was my first foil session of the year. The waves were kind of big for the foil, but no excuses. It felt good to fly again!
I made a big mistake today by going too fast. So when I fell, it hurt. Haha.
My student surfed his best and caught the best waves in his life today. He was so excited on the long drive home. He kept on talking about each wave and was on a natural high. I was laughing so much because I know that feeling. The drive home from the North shore after an epic session is the best. You feel like Superman!
