Rain or Shine:  Boot Camp continues…

Good morning 4:10am.
North shore 2-4′ and cleaning up.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head waist to chest high and good.
Light trade winds so good conditions.
Sunny and warm after a cool morning.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Another early morning paddling out in the dark.  I love it! 

Hiro-san paddled out before me and was riding waves all alone in the dark.  He’s gotten a lot more comfortable and confident.  

Today was the first time I surfed with Koito-san.  He’s never seen a photo of himself surfing so I hope he likes this one.  I think it’s pretty cool!  

Hiro-san doesn’t really like the rain, but he surely surfs really good in the rain.  

Koito-san going backside.  He rode the best rides of his life today.  

It’s been so wonderful mixing the boys up.  We all push each other to get better and it’s showing in the smiles.  

Then we went back for Boot Camp this afternoon.  The waves were sooooo good!!!  Another day of 2 rounds and I’m starting to like this style of year!

After our morning session, we rested.  Then as I was checking the waves in the afternoon, I had a gut feeling that my secret spot would be good.  Every indicator was telling me it was good but the only way to find out was to go.  It’s a gamble, but we tried our luck.  

As I was paddling out, I watched 15 perfect waves like this break right in front of me.  I started getting excited and paddled faster and faster.  I was so excited that I had a hard time breathing.  I felt we were on some kind of surf trip in another country because NOBODY was out!!!  The waves were barreling left and right and we took turns riding and riding.  I thought it was a dream…

Thank goodness I took out a high performance shortboard because the waves were high performance.  I did my best personal turns of the year and I also got my first barrel of the year.  I’m hoping tomorrow will be the same and if it is, that’s where you’ll find me.  Or maybe won’t find me.  I’m good at keeping secrets…