Boogie Board Dean on a Long Board…

Good morning 4am.
North shore 6-8′ and perfect.
Ala Moana waist high and perfect.
Diamond Head chest high and perfect.
Everywhere good this morning. Light winds!
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Yano-san and I were standing on the beach in the pitch dark.  We were the first surfers in the water and I could tell he was a little nervous.   It was his first time surfing in the dark but once he caught his first wave, all I could see was white teeth.  I can’t see him because it’s too dark, but seeing white teeth means he’s smiling.  Haha.

Now Yano-san understands why this is my favorite time of the day.  The waves and conditions are usually the best and so is the sunrise.

There were some very nice chest high sets and breaking perfectly.  Lucky winter swell…

Good surfing Yano-san!  I was so happy to see you ripping!

Happy guys after an amazing winter morning in Hawaii…

After coming back from an amazing North Shore morning session, we went to paddle out to Bowls.  And I was surprised to see a rare South swell!  The waves were chest high and super good in the afternoon!  I had my red magic board so I knew it would be fun. 

Fukuyama-san is visiting from Okinawa so it was nice to surf with an island boy.  He must have caught 20 long waves.  Super cool and calm. 

This was the best day at Bowls in a while.  Lots of waves and lots of surfing.  Love this view… 

I finally feel at a place where I can say I have so many magic boards.  From foil boards to longboards to shortboards to everything.  I have magic for every kind of conditions.  This 6’8 is just one of many…

Thank you Fukuyama-san for the amazing surf session.  Hope to surf with you again!