Tuesday December16日 2025年

Full Moon Boys

Kenta-san wanted to surf at 5am this morning so I was super happy!  I woke up at 2:30am and was ready!  

I told the boys to lineup on the beach for this photo.  They were smiling but all you can see is the moonlight.  We paddled out in the dark and it was so beautiful. 

Jo-san’s surfing super good.  After 25 years of surfing, he’s still stoked! 

Kenta-san tried my other board and loved it.  Much faster and way easier to turn.  

The waves were twice as big as last time but Hiro-san surfed twice as good.  You should have seen his smile after this wave.  So cool!

Thank you boys for the wonderful early morning surf.  Great to be back home at 7:40am fully content.  Hope you guys enjoyed the rest of your day.  I jumped in the sauna and took a long nap.  Such a lovely life…

June 6, 2023 Hawaii Surf Report

Early morning Drop Knee…

Good morning 3am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Have a wonderful day!

Dawn Patrol Thieves

On the way to Bowls, I saw 2 guys on a bicycle stealing someones e-bike.  They were laughing.  Then I get to the beach and see these 2 monk seals sleeping with the full moon.  So romanic!

I took this photo and standing next to me also taking photos was a local surfer from Rockpiles.  He went to his car to put his camera away, then we paddled out to surf.  Five minutes later his truck got stolen from the parking lot!!!  OMG!  There are thieves everywhere so please be vigilant.

Summer is here and everyone is excited!  Even the thieves!

Another one of my cameras just drowned.  Full with salt water, this one is dead.  Now I’m over 15 cameras that died on me.  When can someone invent something better?

I was craving asparagus so I chopped some up and made this healthy stir fry for dinner!  It was delicious.  Going to sleep and going to dawn patrol!