If you guys don’t know who James Jones is, let me teach you some surf history.  James Jones won the Duke Kahanamoku Classic back in 1972 and 1976.  He’s been a big wave Waimea Bay charger for decades.  He’s pretty much a legend underground big wave surfer that every big wave surfer around the world knows.  Till this day, he still surfs everyday.  So I see him on the beach yesterday wearing a Dove Wetsuit. I ask him, “how’s your wetsuit?”  He replies “this is the best wetsuit I had in my whole life!”  James Jones is 71 years old and has been surfing his whole life.  So saying that Dove is the best wetsuit in his whole life says a lot…

The Early Birds get the Worm…

Good morning 3:20am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to longboard.
Have a wonderful day!

It was so cool to surf with Fujiki-san again!  Covid is over so he can finally come back every year again.  It must have felt pretty good jumping back into paradise. 

For a guy who hasn’t surfed for 3 years, Fujiki-san didn’t forget a thing.  From his first wave to his last, it was smooth surfing all the way.

I followed him a few times and it looked like this.  So beautiful. 

Always searching for the barrel.   Great surfing with you again Fujiki-san!  

The water was crystal clear today.  And the waves should be like this for the next week.  Everyones happy.