After my morning surf, I turned on the TV to watch the Pipeline Masters.  The waves were really big and tricky so if you were connected to the ocean, you will succeed.  The last heat of the day was exciting.  Kaulana Apo needed a combination of 2 waves to make the Top 4 to advance to the finals.  And the kid did it!   

I was watching him getting the best waves of the day and making it look so easy!  I was screaming!!!  

So calm and so confident.  Nobody in the world knows who Kaulana Apo was but now they do.  Kaulana is the sweetest and kindest kid you will ever meet.  I’m so happy for him and I’m sure all the Hawaiian’s are too.

OMG, and Carissa Moore got the best Backdoor wave of the day.  Even better than the men!  She made history because there is no other woman in the world that got a perfect barrel at Backdoor like that ever before.  

And even she knew it.  I hope she wins the Women’s Pipeline Masters finals tomorrow!  

So of the 40 surfers, only the Top 4 will surf in the finals tomorrow.  The winner will win $100,000 and be labeled a Pipeline Master.  The waves will get smaller so that means Backdoor will be epic.  Kaulana is the underdog going into tomorrow but I’m cheering 100% for him!  Don’t miss it…

When a super typhoon hits Japan, the ocean gets violent.  So violent that there could be 30′ faces, strong currents, and lots of white water.  Usually nobody surfs on days like this but these were the days I longed for.  I use to love the challenge.  But now when I look back, I think I paddled out at times when I shouldn’t have.  Imagine getting lost somewhere in all that white water?  There are no lifeguards and nobody will come to save you.  If you break your board or leash, bad things could happen?  I rode a 7’6 that day and look how small me and the board look compared to all the ocean.  Those are the days I wouldn’t take out my students for Boot Camp  Haha.

Kochi, Shikoku.  Photo by Matsu

Ala Moana in Mid-December.  The Endless Summer…

Good morning 4:10am.
North shore still big. 8-10′ and Pipeline Masters ON!
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and beautiful.
No wind so prefect morning conditions.
Cool morning becoming warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!