Back in 2004, there was a typhoon spinning right above the Philippines so I flew there, chartered a boat, and explored some of the most remote areas in Mindanao.  I was a bit nervous because there was still a Level 3 Travel Advisory for Americans NOT to travel there.  Yes, the Abu Sayyaf trained in Mindanao and tourists were getting kidnapped and killed at that time.  In the day, we would search for waves that were never surfed before.  At night, I would sleep with my passport in my pocket, and mask/snorkel next to my bed.  And when I heard noises, I would grab my snorkel and get ready to jump into the ocean.  That was my way of surviving terrorism at that time.  But in the end, riding perfect waves like this felt 100% more rewarding because of the 1000% risk.  My friends called me crazy, and my Mom called me stupid.  

Mayuki went back into the ocean were she belongs.  Now it’s time to explore. 

Driving through Waikiki and saw something familiar.

Yes, that’s my niece Kelia Moniz with her toes on the nose!

Yesterday once more:  Troy passing by…

Good morning 3am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

This is an ideal typhoon course for surf.  Just by looking at this, there will be big and perfect waves in the Philippines, Taiwan, Okinawa, and most of Japan.  If I were to chase this one, I would be waiting for the South/West swells on a tiny island off the West coast of Japan.

And I would be surfing with Matchi right here at this spot getting the barrels of our lives.  Unfortunately I wasn’t able to make this one, but I can assure you Matchi is getting barreled for me.  Thanks for the photos and thanks for thinking of me Matchi!

Although I can’t chase typhoons like before, I’m not in a too bad of a place.  This morning we woke up to unexpected overhead perfect waves.

Malcom’s one of the happiest regulars out there.  Always smiling and always getting good waves.

The waves were so glassy that it felt like we were in Indonesia.  John at Hawaii’s Macaroni’s.

Bigger than yesterday, many more waves than yesterday, and a lot less surfers than yesterday.  I guess that made today “Perfect!”