I was cleaning up around my house and found some treasure!  I forgot I even had this old school twin fin!  Can’t wait to ride it again.

Now I’m cleaning up my desktop and finding some photos from traveling.  This one was at a little village in Sumba, Indonesia.  Walking around in one of the small villages was such an amazing experience.  This kid was sitting next to a pile of fish trying to sell me some.  In America, they would call this child labor.  But in Indonesia, they call this survival.

Whoever invented the foil saved many lives.  The older group of foilers now have passion again.  I just love seeing it!

Early morning shot from November.  I miss those beautiful South swell mornings.

Check this photo I saw on the news!  OMG, this is so amazing!!!  It makes me want to get barreled!

Go Uncle Steve!!!

Good morning 4:30am.
HIGH SURF WARNING FOR NORTH/WEST SHORES!
North shore big and still getting bigger.
Solid 15′ today. Pipeline Masters ON!
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light winds so good morning conditions.
Rainy day.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Today was like the first day of winter for me.  I know when I get to my truck early in the morning and the glass has mist on it.  It was a very chilly morning taking the long drive out to the country.  

Today was a day for my personal Boot Camp.  I went to a secret spot on the North shore that is very steep.  The waves were way overhead so I practiced over and over taking off on the steepest part of the wave.  I rode my 5’9 and worked on timing, my pop up, and did it over and over for 15 waves.  I succeeded by making every wave, but I still have to work on my timing.  Making the wave is one thing, but pulling into the barrel off the takeoff is another.  There is no room for error.  One more session and I’ll be there.   And like always, the drive back to town is happy.  Smiling and smelling the sweet pineapples all the way!!!  

Peter King sent me another photo from Jurassic’s.  Lots of jellyfish there so a 1MM top from Dove will get you covered.  Thank you PK for the photo, and thank you Dove Wetsuits for the protection!