LIFE’S GOOD On Our BOAT!

Good morning 3:20am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Lighter trade winds at 10mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Instead of a daily early morning surf, I skipped it to work on my baby.  It’s much cooler, much more peaceful, and no sunburn.  Everything is turning out perfectly.      

Boat paint, sealants, oils, and other hazardous materials are dangerous to work with.  I didn’t wear a mask on the first day so the fumes from the paint made me dizzy.  I had a headache and was hallucinating.  I probably lost some brain cells.  Now I’m prepared. 

I’m starting from the bottom up and making sure I don’t miss anything.  Mayuki will look brand new once I finish.  I can’t wait to get her back in the ocean!

At my age, I didn’t think I’d still be riding steep waves like this.  The crazy thing is before that session, I visualized making every single wave that morning.  It’s been such a long time and board was way too small, but that wasn’t going to be an excuse.  My confidence level was sky high and not nervous at all.  It was pretty much “do or die.”  So just like I teach my students, “put your head down, paddle hard, and pretend that is your last wave of your life.”  And that’s exactly what I did.

Backdoor is one of the best barrels in the world.  It’s very competitive out there so getting a really good wave like this takes time and dedication.  Surfing out there for the past 34 years helped because I know exactly where the best waves will break.  I line up with a coconut tree on the beach, sit right over a little hole in the reef, and I don’t move.  And when that perfect wave shows up, I put my head down, paddle hard, and ride what could possibly be last wave of my life…

Then if I survive, I paddle back out and repeat the process…