Yesterday’s wave of the day:  Almost barreled again!

Good morning 4am.
North shore 4-6′.
Ala Moana waist high.
Diamond Head chest high.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I thought Diamond Head was going to be good this morning so we went there.  It was still dark but it didn’t seem right.  So we got back in the car and headed to Bowls.  It was absolutely perfect.  The best swell direction making the rights and lefts really good.  

Today was this girls best performance until now.  She’s mastered her bottom turn and is completing her rides.  

I get a good energy from Malcom.  He’s always very positive and always smiling.  And when he takes off on a wave, that smile turns into laughter.  This is the only guy I know that laughs from start to finish.  

You can’t be more stoked than this.  If everybody enjoyed surfing like this, the ocean would be a much better place.  

Went back out for Round 2 at Bowls.  

Good to surf with Ozaki-san again!  Really energetic as she rode each wave all the way until the rock wall.  

We surfed until the sunset.  Breezy North winds making it chilly.  A long day with excellent surfing.  See you tomorrow.  Goodnight.

HSL Round 2 Heat 1:  Go Girls!

Good morning 3:45am.
North shore 10-15′ and bumpy.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and clean.
North winds at 15mph.
Sunny and cool.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!