Check out this surfers dream VW Van.  Imported from California and driven at Bowls.  

Clean and simple is always good.

Wow!  Papa Bear!

I’m scared of bears!  

Fuckengruven.  The best surf mobile…

OMG, traffic jam at Diamond Head.  The tourists are BACK!

Good morning 4:20am.
North shore 3-5′ and good.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Strong trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Full moon surf this morning.  It was so bright!

We’ve been working on board selection.  Each board is custom made for different conditions.  So choosing the right board for the right day is very important.

This morning she chose the 6’2 because the waves were smooth, clean, and pretty easy.  Right choice.

Round 2 was at Diamond Head.  Much bigger and a lot more wild.  So she chose the 6’4 which makes it easier to catch waves, and also much more stable.   Right choice.

This was her best performance at Diamond Head.  Paddled out to the right place, caught a lot of waves, and rode them perfectly.  One of my friends asked me how this girl got good so fast.  I told him “lots of practice in different types of waves with different types of surfboards.  And also, making the right choice.”