Head high sets and wild! Lots of good waves and lots of people. Already surfed 2 rounds and maybe going for 3. Summer is here!

Yesterday once more:  We don’t mind the wait…

Good morning 4:15am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

It was a beautiful morning and the waves were really good.  Head high sets and perfect conditions.  I paddled out in the dark and saw some perfect unridden waves.  Gosh, it’s been a good few weeks of waves!  

It’s been a while since I got to surf with Lance Hookano.  Every time he paddles out, the session becomes much better.  Great stories, great laughs, and great guy.  

Lance has a lot of Hawaiian blood in him and a lot of surfing experience too.  He doesn’t have to surf for a year and he will come back stronger than ever.

Earlier in the morning, Malcom broke his surfboard.  I saw him paddle in on half of his board.  1 hour later, the boys see the other half of his board floating in the ocean down by Magic Island.  I went to grab it, and luckily the break was clean.  I hope he can put it back together again.