Head rush or Sea sick

Super happy to have my classmate back in Hawaii.  Rio san’s been practicing in Japan and her level is way higher than last year.  Look at this smooth ride!

As you can see, the waves were really good this morning.  Lots of waves and lots of people.  But coming from Japan, this is very uncrowded.  And also epic waves!

This girl is putting in the time on the 7’6 because when the waves get giant again, she wants to feel comfortable on this board.  That’s one less thing to worry about.  

These are the moments every surfer dreams about.  A perfect wave at sunrise.

Hang on Rio san!  Great surfing today!

For the past 11 years, I’ve been scrubbing the bottom of Mayuki every month.  Making sure it’s clean and making sure there are no barnacles forming.  Some people think this is a dirty job but this is very therapeutic for me.  It’s a good exercise, I’m relaxed, my breath holds are getting longer, and most importantly, I’m taking care of my beautiful baby.  

Try to scrub underwater a in an upside down position.  You’re either going to get a good head rush, or you’re going to get major seasick.  I get a natural high!  Haha.

Great shots Mighty Mouse!

August 11, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report

The early bird always gets the worm…

Good morning 3am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Crazy Crowded Long Day

We went out to Bowls early this morning with no expectations.  Thank goodness because this was the weakest swell of the year.  In fact, it was so weak that I only caught 3 waves in 2 hours.  As for the girls, they caught 15 waves each so it was epic for them.  Haha.

This was the outside lineup as every single guy was a local.  Add the rest of the crowd in and today must have had a hundred surfers from Bowls to Rockpiles.  It was crazy crowded!

The gold medal NBA game was one of the best basketball games I’ve ever seen. France almost had a chance but USA was too strong in the end.  With superstar athletes like this, we’re not supposed to lose.

Another gold medal for the USA!

Then went for a special kids birthday party.

Happy 11th Birthday Mateus.  We all love you very much.  Wishing you another wonderful year ahead.

My other Grand nephews and nieces were loving Dave and Busters.  It’s any kids dream there.

As the kind hearted kid he is, Mateus let his younger brother blow out the candles of his birthday cake.

Then went straight to Diamond Head for Round 2.  The waves were good and not too many people for a weekend.  Compared to Bowls this morning, this was empty.

Sitting under the tree for shade, a bird pooped on my head again.  Wiped it off with my towel and thought how lucky I’ve been with bird poop recently.

It was a long day but very rewarding.  Lots of smiles all day long…