The last 5′ swell we had, we got really lucky to paddle out to a spot where there was just us.  The waves were way overhead and offshore.  The lesson for that day was to paddle with confidence, paddle hard, and make sure you catch the wave.  The reason is because if you miss a wave, there will be bigger waves behind.  And that’s the last place you want to be on a big day.  

Staying low and focus on looking forward.  And when you’re riding the right size board, it’s pretty easy to succeed.  If you have the wrong board, you will fail.  So yes, board selection on the big days is very important.

We practiced on the longboard for 5 days straight.  This is where the girls learned how to time the waves better.  And when you can time the waves better, you will surf better.

Then you can start taking steps forward, look cool, and feel so excited.

Now it’s time to walk to the nose.  That is coming really soon.

Shiina-san gave me this sticker he designed.  It says “Don’t think, feel.”  I love it!

come

Yesterday once more:  Come fly with us…  Photo by Allen

Good morning 4:40am.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

So happy to be back on my foil this morning.  From my first wave up, I felt so FREE again!  Flying like a bird and feeling like I’m in a different world.  I caught so many waves, did so many turns, and caught my last wave all the way to the parking lot.  My best session in a very long time.

Followed the girls around while they were catching all the waves.  There were some really nice rights if you had the right magic board.  And yes, this board looked magic!

We’ve been trying out different boards on days like this so when the waves get big again, we will be prepared.  Sounds like a new swell on Saturday?

The lefts at Bowls were good too.  Long rides and smooth surfing.

If you can do a turn like this on a 7’3 on a small wave like this, you’re going to be surprised to be riding that same 7’3 on double overhead days.  You’re going to be doing the biggest turns of your life.  Just wait and see.