There is a price to pay to live in Hawaii.  These days, the price is very high as the cost of living is amongst the highest in the nation.  A new study concludes housing in Honolulu isn’t just pricy, but “impossibly unaffordable.”  I’ve never heard that phrase before but to say Hawaii is “impossibly unaffordable” says a lot.  

Thank goodness they caught this guy.  He attacked a girl walking on the beach at Diamond Head Cliffs at 10:30am.  In broad daylight, he tried to rape her.  OMG!  And Honolulu was also voted the safest city in the world?  Nowhere is safe anymore.  Please be vigilant and be smart!

Back in the day:  Barefoot in Cuba.

Good morning 5am.
Ala Moana big and good. 5′ and clean.
Diamond Head 6′ and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

The day started off shoulder high when I first got out to Bowls.  It was finals day with a new South swell so everybody was expecting the swell to rise rapidly.

Jackson Bunch has been practicing every morning and his hard work paid off.  He made the finals!

From panic attacks to comfortable mindset surfing big waves.  Keeping calm will make your life a lot better.  Just ask this girl.

The waves were getting bigger and bigger at Bowls.  Within an hour, there were 6′ sets!  On the wave right before this one, a 10′ tiger shark was swimming right along the face of the wave.  Everyone saw it.  Cool!

I went home to take a nap, eat lunch, and went straight to Big Rights.  I already knew it was going to be excellent.  Kimo Gasper, Makua Rothman, Koa Rothman, and myself taking turns.  This was Makua’s wave and he ended up getting the best barrel of the day.

Koa Rothman ripping it backside.

Today was the biggest day of the year and it’s going to get bigger!  We’ve had solid surf for over a month and everyone is super happy!  Best Hawaiian summer ever?  So far, yes!