The weather and waves were super bad today.  The worst day in months.  So, instead of surfing, I went shopping.  Shopping for food.  

The first time I ate pigs feet was in Chigasaki about 25 years ago.  Tokura-san took me to a yakiniku restaurant and I almost threw up when I saw him eating it.  Eating dirty pigs feet?  What?  Anyway, he let me try one and ever since, that’s been my favorite.  

So I bought a big bag today and tomorrow’s dinner will be pigs feet.  Can’t wait!  

After about a month in the water surfing 2 rounds each day, today was a day to rest my body.  My first drink of the year is this lovely bottle of red wine.  One of my favorites!  

After breaking over 15 GoPros over the years, I’m hoping this one lasts more than a month.  

If you’re looking for the worst customer service on the island, go to Lowe’s hardware.  I’ve ordered a refrigerator that didn’t come, a washer that was delivered damaged, and a dryer that got cancelled the morning it was supposed to come.  They don’t apologize, they don’t reply, and they don’t answer their phones.  The only way is to go into the store and wait in line.  Nobody takes accountability, and it’s excuse after excuse.  So when I went there today and saw this sign, it tells you a lot.  It’s literally saying not to swear, threat, or beat up the staff.  The 2 people in front of me in the line pretty much did everything except beat up the staff.  Haha.

EVERYDAY IS A NEWDAY!  Thank you boys!

Good morning 5:40am.
North shore chest high in the morning. 6-8′ by this evening.
Ala Moana chest high and super junky bumpy.
Diamond Head shoulder high and super junky bumpy.
Strong South/West winds at 20mph.
Rain and clouds mixed with some sun.
Going to rest.
Have a wonderful day!

It was the boys last day in Hawaii so we went out early again.  First guys in the ocean this morning.

Sitting on the beach talking, laughing, and getting exited to surf.

Ryu-san caught his first wave and I followed him.  Look good and you will see his shadow.  So cool!  

We rode it till the end.  Ryu-san improved so much on this trip.  Riding a much shorter board and being more confident and comfortable.  Paddling back out after every wave with the biggest smile.

Then the Uncles came out.  Kyle, Clarance, Jerome, and Gary.  All cool surfers.

This morning was the most beautiful morning of the year so far.  Not a single cloud in the sky and the colors kept on changing every minute.  And on top of that, the waves were the best it’s been in a very long time.

Thank you guys for the amazing Boot Camp.  Hope you made your flight on time and are dreaming all the way back to Japan.  Keep on surfing and see you boys again!