Spent Christmas eve with the family.  Just sitting back and watching the kids grow.  They run, the fall, they laugh, they cry, and they do things normal kids aren’t allowed to do.  I get nervous watching them.  

This man just got off the airplane and 2 hours later we headed straight to the North shore.  A building swell and nice conditions.  Haleiwa was super fun and not too crowded.  I could see the calmness, I could see the confidence, and I could see some amazing rides from this Okinawan.  Haleiwa sent him some great Christmas waves!  Boot camp starts…

Merry Christmas to You!

Good morning 5am.
North shore 4-6′ and good.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and good.
Light winds today so nice conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a Merry Merry Christmas Day!

I’m starting to fall in love with Diamond Head again.  Lots of practice there, lots of contests there, and lots of memories there.  Here, you can see the sun rising over the horizon.

Yesterday surf, today foil.  Balance is everything.

Even though the waves are small, you can still ride some nice long waves here.

Diamond Head is one of those spots that welcomes everyone.  No yelling, no fighting, and no egos.  Just a bunch of surfers having fun.

It’s been a while since I foiled here so it was challenging.  The ocean is moving around a lot more than Ala Moana.  You have to connect to be able to put yourself in the right spot at the right time.

I did a cutback and almost ran over the cameraman.  This was way too close.  Abunai.