Exercise and Adrenaline Rush

It’s been so cold these past few days!!!  Even more cold where I live so it takes a lot of motivation to head down to the beach.  It’s been totally empty!  Not a single person out at Bowls again so that looked very inviting!  

Surfing in the cold is not a problem at all if you have a good wetsuit.  I was actually hot in my Dove Mad Taylor wetsuit.  This one is my warmest top so being one of the coldest days, it was perfect.

My mouth starts to water when I see little swells starting to break.  One wave will take me to 4 or 5 waves on the foil.  I was having the best time out there all to myself.  And also a great exercise.  I thought I was having a heart attack a couple times.  It’s crazy how much energy it takes to foil.  It’s the pumping, and also the adrenaline rush all at once.

Rode my last wave and watched the sunrise before heading back to the beach.

And where there’s sun and rain, of course there will be a rainbow.  An awesome morning with great exercise plus an adrenaline rush.  Took a nap right after so back in bed at 8am.

December 18, 2023 Hawaii Surf Report

Always waiting for the perfect wave…

Good morning 4:20am.
High surf warning for East shore.
East swell coming up to 6-8′ today. Jurassic’s going off.
Ala Moana knee high.
Diamond Head waist high.
North/East winds at 25mph today.
Rainy morning becoming cloudy. Hopefully some sun.
Cloudy and rainy winter weather continues all week.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

1997: Eddie Would Go

Check out what I found in my closet.  26 years ago, Tony Moniz gave me a couple of Eddie Aikau posters that have been in my closet ever since.  It’s very rare to have it in this condition.   Eddie surfing Waimea Bay with no leash.  This is a classic…

The invitees were all watermen like Brock Little, Gary Elkerton, Titus Kinimaka, Vetea David, Mark Occhilupo, David Standt, and Tony Moniz.  A very historic year!

I also found another mini skateboard from over 30 years ago.   I made 3 of these and still have them.  Rode it to the train stations in Japan, threw it in my backpack, and traveled all over with these.

You would be surprised how fast these little skateboards go.  But you better not fall because it will hurt.

Chasing typhoons in Japan use to be my passion.  And also my job.  Nothing came in-between that.  If there was a super typhoon, I dropped everything and made sure I was on the very first of the arriving swells.  And riding waves all the way to the last.  I can’t tell you where this is but as you can see, it’s gonna barrel forever!