About 13 years ago, I was getting dropped off at a train station in Tokyo after dinner and drinks.  Right as I was about to exit the car, I was asked a question:  We are going to Indonesia tomorrow, do you want to go?”  Huh?  I thought it was a joke but nobody was laughing.  I literally only had a backpack with a couple days of clothes with me.  The next day, I got picked up, driven to Haneda, and boarded a private jet with people I hardly even knew.  Then got on another private jet and taken to an island somewhere deep in Indonesia.   Little did I know, that trip would change the course of my life.  

This was the first trip in my life I wasn’t prepared for.  So I start looking around the storage area on the boat trying to find something to do.  I came across a mask and speargun.  I asked the driver if he could take me to the nearest reef.  I jumped in and couldn’t believe the abundance of wildlife.  I took a deep dive, waited on the bottom in total silence, watching the fish starting to get curious, and when I seen this guy come within striking distance, I took the shot.  A perfect shot to the head and this became our appetizer.

I look back now and still think it was a dream.  Getting invited to a special Indonesia Boat Trip with an elite group of kind ladies and gentlemen.  That only happens in the movies right?

By the way, I didn’t answer yes or no to the invite.  I said I needed to think about it.  The next morning, I got a call saying “you’re coming!”  Then I went…

The waves at Backdoor has been really good recently.  I was watching it over and over getting ready to motivate myself to go out there to get one.  Then the news about last years Pipeline Masters finalist Joao Chinca getting rescued came in.

This is the wave Joao got hurt on.  These wipeouts look more dangerous than it actually is.  Surfers do this on purpose when they feel like they won’t make the drop.  It’s planned and well rehearsed.  You jump from the top feet down, then calculate the way you penetrate the ocean by the ocean depth.  At deep spots like Haleiwa or Sunset, you can penetrate deep.  BUT, at Backdoor where it’s very shallow, you want to penetrate just enough to get you under the wave without jackknifing into the reef.  This is actually relatively safe.  BUT, Joao somehow got knocked unconscious and got held down for a few waves.  Maybe hitting his head from the reef, or probably from his board?  Lucky everybody watches out for each other out there so the boys jumped in when they didn’t see him resurface.

When they grabbed him, the was unconscious and turned blue.  Thankfully the lifeguards brought him back to life on the beach and he will live to get barreled again.  I had chicken skin when I saw this video because that’s my nephew Seth Moniz helping out.  All surfers that surf Backdoor know that any wave out there could be the last wave of your life.  The risks are there, but the reward always win.  Hoping Joao a speedy recover before the Pipeline Masters coming up.

18 days till Christmas!

Good morning 4:30am.
North shore 3-5′ and perfect.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and good.
Light winds so perfect conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!