Drawing lines…

Good morning 4:30am.
North shore 8-12′.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high.
Light trade winds at 10mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

I had a great time surfing with Moriyama-san this morning.  The conditions were absolutely perfect.  Clean water and great surfing.

30 years of surfing experience so 30 years of happiness.

Moriyama-san caught a lot of waves and will be riding more and more in these coming days.

When we have our family dinners, the kids remember every single time I took them out on the boat.  We always talk about it but I forgot 99% so luckily we still have the photos to relive the moment.  If I didn’t have this photo, I would have totally forgot.  But now, I remember everything.  Isaiah with a fish he caught, and we took home and ate after.

Seth, Isaiah, and Kelia were helping me with the ice bath last night.  They were very serious and really wanted me to succeed.  All three of them were coaching me while I was in the freezing water.  Then their Dad walked over and poured the cold water over my head.  Then I had to get out ASAP!  Haha.  Thanks boys!

Soon, a true documentary about the discovery of the island of Nias is coming out.  It’s going to be about the discovery, and also the change ever since.  It’s told through the eyes of a local girl that grew up in Nias and became the first female surfing champion.  It will be about the positives and negatives of what surf discovery involves.  I heard there is going to be never seen before footage of the first surfers who rode those perfect barreling rights.  Footage from Storm Riders and Asian Paradise.  I can’t wait to see it.

After coming back from Sumbawa and seeing what happened in the 30 years since the first guys surfed it, I can already sense the theme of this documentary.  Yes, there are positives and negatives.  I’ll get into that later but for now, imagine a group of surfers discovering your pristine and isolated island, then turning it into something you may not like.  Some will like it and some won’t.  Honestly, I didn’t like what I saw in Sumbawa.  I prefer it like it was 30 years ago…