One of my most favorite places in Japan.  The Master is an artist!

Hamo or pike conger.

Sato imo or sweet taro.

Dashimaki tamago or rolled omelette.

Sanma zushi or saury sushi.

Sashimi omakase or chef’s special.

Wyagu beef is my dessert.  Tender, juicy, and delicious.

Be water my friend…

Good morning 3:40am.
North shore head high and good.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light winds so clean morning conditions.
Cloudy with some sun.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

After a wonderful surf at Bowls this morning, I came home and started to clean places I haven’t cleaned in 25 years.  I got on my hands and knees , crawled under my house, and started throwing things away.  Whenever I put things on my street, I don’t put it in trash can because someone always comes and takes things before the rubbish truck comes.  The saying goes “one mans trash is another mans treasure.”    

Then I find something covered in dirt on the bottom of all my broken surfboards.  It’s a classic Town and Country single fin!  OMG!  This board has been under my house for over 30 years!  

So I stopped everything and cleaned it up.  All the time thinking about how I’m going to take this board out to big Sunset Beach and ride huge waves like I use to back in the 80’s.    

In 1988, I remember riding a 6’8 Town and Country board on huge closeout days at Sunset Beach with Tony.  This one is a 7’1 so it should be easy.  I’m so excited to try!

After I cleaned it up, I sent the photos to Glenn Minami because he shaped it.  He told me he shaped this board 42 years ago!  I asked him if he thinks it will handle big Sunset.  He replied “just got to try it.”  That’s exactly what I’m going to do this winter!