Wednesday August27日 2025年

Bromance

It’s so lovely out here! Let’s go boys!!!

December 8, 2023 Hawaii Surf Report

Long time no see…

Good morning 3:40am.
North shore waist to chest high today.
Ala Moana knee high.
Diamond Head waist high.
No wind so EPIC morning conditions.
Sunny and warm after a cool morning.
Going deep blue.
Have a wonderful day!

Instant Opportunities

About 13 years ago, I was getting dropped off at a train station in Tokyo after dinner and drinks.  Right as I was about to exit the car, I was asked a question:  We are going to Indonesia tomorrow, do you want to go?”  Huh?  I thought it was a joke but nobody was laughing.  I literally only had a backpack with a couple days of clothes with me.  The next day, I got picked up, driven to Haneda, and boarded a private jet with people I hardly even knew.  Then got on another private jet and taken to an island somewhere deep in Indonesia.   Little did I know, that trip would change the course of my life.  

This was the first trip in my life I wasn’t prepared for.  So I start looking around the storage area on the boat trying to find something to do.  I came across a mask and speargun.  I asked the driver if he could take me to the nearest reef.  I jumped in and couldn’t believe the abundance of wildlife.  I took a deep dive, waited on the bottom in total silence, watching the fish starting to get curious, and when I seen this guy come within striking distance, I took the shot.  A perfect shot to the head and this became our appetizer.

I look back now and still think it was a dream.  Getting invited to a special Indonesia Boat Trip with an elite group of kind ladies and gentlemen.  That only happens in the movies right?

By the way, I didn’t answer yes or no to the invite.  I said I needed to think about it.  The next morning, I got a call saying “you’re coming!”  Then I went…