Hanging out with the legends of Bali was fun.  I’ve known Leon and Ganti since my first trip to Bali in 1994.  They still surf, they still smile, and they still take care of the boys.  I respect those guys a lot!  

Yesterday the waves were small so I went for a workout instead.  Foiled out at Bowls and caught 15 waves in an hour, rode my last one to the beach, and almost had a heart attack.  This morning I surfed for 2 hours and wasn’t even tired.  Foiling is the best workout ever.

I miss the days when I use to drive the kids down to the beach.   I would take photos of them and laugh because they were so small and cute.  Renta, Shun, Seth, and Joshua at Kewalos.

We spent 2 weeks on a boat in the Maldives.  We played drinking games, danced, and did other stupid things.  Sometimes all night long.  But come 5am, we got up and did our job, which was to surf and get the photos for the magazine.  Four pro surfers, 2 pro bodyboarders, and two world famous photographers.  We all knew how to party, and all knew how to work.  That was a successful trip.  

Diving all these years, I saw the coolest things.  It’s all so amazing.

I had a request from a Japanese magazine called “Surfer Girls” to get a photo of Haunani.  It was so easy because Haunani surfs good, looks good, and smiles good.  The photos came out so beautiful that Surfer Girls used one on the cover.  Stoked!

I went to the Kahala Mall theaters to support my friend.  Judy-chan was acting in an amazing documentary called Pacific Mother.  I had no idea what it was about so I just went to check it out.  

As soon as I reclined my seat and got comfortable, a girl from Australia who sat next to me recognized me from my blog.  I asked her why she came to see the film and she said because she wanted to learn more about midwifes.  I had no idea what she was talking about but then I kind of knew what the movie was going to be about.  After I thought about it, it must have been creepy for a guy like me going by himself to a film about midwifes?  Think about that.  Haha.  

Gosh, I sure learned a lot.  First, Judy-chan is amazing!  Second, now I know what a midwife is.  And last, now I know what a newborn baby looks like coming out of the mother underwater.  I have a new respect for all you Mothers out there.  You girls are strong!  

When I first walked into the event, a girl that looked like a supermodel walked right up me.  I didn’t recognize her at all.  After a few seconds, I realized it was Judy-chan.  I’ve known Judy-chan for years but never seen her with makeup before.  Haha.  So we take a photo and I send it to Kimura-san.  His reply was “who is that???”  Haha.  By the way, I know her simply as Judy-chan.  Sweet, humble, and beautiful inside and out.  She’s an actress that goes by the name Sachiko Fukumoto.  Now I have a different kind of respect for her after seeing her give birth to her 2 beautiful children.  Good job girl!

Nature is wonderful…

Good morning 4am.
North shore 1st swell! 8-10′ and getting bigger.
Ala Moana shoulder high and good.
Diamond Head head high and good.
Light winds so clean morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!