Taking off from the peak like this on your foil is challenging. First, you need the proper equipment. I order my Trinx custom foil boards so it will allow me to get into the wave fast. Second, timing is everything. If you’re off by a split second, you won’t make it. Last, once you succeed in a take off like this, the feeling of a chest high wave on a foil is the same feeling of taking off on a 10′ wave with your surfboard. The adrenaline rush is exactly the same, except you’re going 2x faster on a foil. So to be able to get the same feeling of a big wave on small days like this, why not? I think this is why I foil. The other day I caught this beautiful right from the peak at Bowls and it felt like 10′ Sunset Beach!
October 11, 2023 Hawaii Surf Report
Still like summer. Mia@Bowls…
Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light trade winds at 10mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!
Indonesia Surf Aliens
Getting back to our Indo trip. I was talking to one of the locals on the beach at Scar Reef. When I told him that I surfed here 30 years ago, he was really surprised. He told me nobody surfed here back then. He told me there was nothing or nobody on the beach back then. And he told me that he wasn’t even born back then. So basically nobody saw our big sailboat pull up, us jumping into the surf, and getting barreled back then. And if they did, that would have been very weird. Surf aliens? Imagine that.
Just up the coast from Scar Reef, there’s a spot named “Phantoms.” We couldn’t see it from the front but as soon as we jumped off the boat from the back, I could feel the strong energy of the ocean. As we paddled towards the shallow ledge, my mind was thinking “ok, this is not your typical perfect clean Indonesia wave, this is more like North Shore or Tahiti. Except there is nobody who’s going to help you if you get hurt. So if you paddle for a wave, you better commit. My first wave was one just to test the wave and reef out. Then the second wave was pulling into the barrel! This uncertainty is what makes surfing remote spots like this very addicting.
Mateus can climb the Koko Head trail in 30 minutes. That’s amazing!
One of my wheels of my $1200 Rimowa suitcase broke.
Just go to a Rimowa store and they will sell you a new wheel for $30. Not too bad considering these suitcases are the best in the world. I would never travel with anything else…