Morning session:  Waves really good.  Here’s Carter getting ready to spray me.

These are the moments where action meets nature.    

I don’t mind getting sprayed by friends.  But nobody else.  

It’s only the beginning of October but Christmas is here!  

Want to thank Dove Wetsuits for making me this beautiful custom long sleeve top.  This is perfect for winter surf in Hawaii.  I can’t wait to wear it!

Ever since she was 2 years old, she fell in love with surfing.  So when ever she asked me to take her surfing, I never once said no.  No matter how tired or busy I was, I made the time.  The ocean makes us happy, the ocean makes us calm, and the ocean fixes everything.  

Fast forward 20 years and many epic surf sessions together, she still asks me to take her surfing.  And even now, I’ll never say no.  This is what I live for.  Watching this beautiful young woman growing year by year brings me so much joy.  The ocean made our relationship 10x better and deeper and I’m very thankful for that.  Surfing is our life…

Happy Birthday my Little Princess!  Thank you for 22 years of love and joy!  Wishing you a wonderful year ahead.

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana waist to chest high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and getting bumpy.
Trade winds back at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Wow, the surf report has been reporting 3-5′ for the past few days and today it finally showed up.  The waves and conditions were perfect!

Kitsukawa-san has only been surfing for 1 year.  I was really impressed on how fast he learned.  Today he wanted to turn so that’s what we focused on.

It was cool to see Kitsukawa-san turning for the first time in his life!  I was so stoked watching him enjoying the moment.  Shortly after this, he was back on an airplane to Japan.  Surf and travel.  Smart man!

I finally got to look at some photos Matsu took.  Here is Yo-yo’s as big as it gets.  So big that nobody was out for days.

I paddled out just for the challenge.  I told myself that even though I don’t catch a wave, it’s ok.  I surfed there 30 years ago and just wanted to feel what 30 years later felt like.  I’m older and wiser now, but the risks are still high.  Back then if you got hurt, you could die alone.  I never use to think about it, but now I do.  So having my friends on the beach was comforting.  I caught 4 waves and thought that was enough for the day.  Then the nightmare of coming in and walking over the reef.  It’s called “The Rockdance.”

When you’re traveling with some of the most important people in your life, you have time to reflect on things.  There were a few moments I had tears in my eyes when I got back to my room.  The feeling of being in such a remote area with people you’ve been traveling with for decades, and still do gets emotional.  I am literally here because of these people, and now we are here together.  Very emotional at times.  These are the times you will never ever forget…