We all have just one life to live.  How you choose to live it is up to you.  At age 25, I chose to live it the surfer style.  Tokura-san inspired me and also supported my dreams along the way.  Before I met him, I wanted to be a billionaire CEO, but after watching his awesome lifestyle filled with friends and experiences, I knew that’s the path I wanted to follow.  The trips, friends, experiences, and memories throughout the years, no amount of money could buy.  Now looking back 30 years, I don’t regret a thing.  I might not be rich with money, but I’m rich in other things that money can’t ever buy.  So thank you Tokura-san for inspiring me for the past 31 years, and thank everyone else for supporting my dream life.  I’m still in the middle of this trip but I’m already planning the next one.  Can’t wait!!!

When I heard the sirens going off, I ran down to the harbor to see the fishermen coming in with the daily catch.  It’s always so exciting.  

Fresh batch of baby sardines called “shirasu.”  It’s still alive!

Then the bidding war starts.  This is the part I like because it’s like playing poker.  You have to know what you’re doing.

OMG, this looks delicious!

Naohiro won the bid so this fresh batch went straight to Yamari.  I followed closely behind to watch the whole process.

This is what raw shirasu looks like before it’s boiled.

I watched it as it got boiled and came off the conveyer belt.  I started to get hungry.  

Then I ran into Kimura-san’s house and Atsuko-san made me the best breakfast in the world.  These fish were swimming in the ocean just hours before so this is as fresh as it gets.  Put some natto and an egg over for perfection.  

Watched the beautiful sunset from Isounora Beach.  

The waves at Isounora were barely knee high but I surfed it anyway.  Needed the exercise and needed the challenge.  Surprisingly I could surf it!  

Got up at 3:30am this morning and drove 6 hours to surf.  We surfers do anything to find surf.  My brothers driving makes me so nervous that it’s impossible to sleep.

This is Japanese surf culture.  Wake up early morning, load up the boards, and go searching for the perfect wave.  And yes, we scored!

Waves so good!!!!