We’re in the middle of October and get one of the best South Swells of the year?  North shore was 15′ yesterday and Bowls was head high.  What other island in the world will you have waves on all shores with offshore conditions?  I’m falling in love with Hawaii even more.  So excited for the upcoming months.

Daisuke-san started surfing because of the corona virus lockdown.  He surfed in Japan, Hawaii, and now California.  He just entered a contest at Trestles and WON his division!

Wow!  Congratulations Daisuke-san!  You’re a winner!!!

Travel Memory: Timor, Indonesia.

Good morning 4:15am.
North shore 6-10′ and good.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head head high and good.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

The waves in town has been super good recently.  Ever since I got back from my trip, the waves have been clean and fun every single day.  I’m loving this extended summer!  This morning was good, but a little tricky.  If you were patient enough, an epic one will come.  I caught a good one and as I was paddling back out, I saw Troy on a better one.  Got my camera out and this was the moment.  A little too close, but close is best with the fisheye lens.  Stoked!