The waves in town has been super good recently.  Ever since I got back from my trip, the waves have been clean and fun every single day.  I’m loving this extended summer!  This morning was good, but a little tricky.  If you were patient enough, an epic one will come.  I caught a good one and as I was paddling back out, I saw Troy on a better one.  Got my camera out and this was the moment.  A little too close, but close is best with the fisheye lens.  Stoked!

Bali has changed a lot.  Lots of traffic, lots of police, and sometimes a military tank on the road.  When I saw this convoy come by, I ducked under a car.  Scary.  

Machine guns out and ready to fire.  

This wasn’t a drill, this was real.  I think the President was in town.  

Then we get to Sumbawa and there are wild horses running wild, cows everywhere, monkeys at your door, and the most amazing sunrises.  I was doing my morning yoga when Matsu took this photo.  Look good and you can see me doing my freedom pose at the edge of the pool.  Haha.  

I stretch out my arms, take a deep breath, and breathe out “Namaste.”  Then the day will always be fine…

New York in Shizunami.

Good morning 3:20am.
North shore 12-15′ and wild. Waimea Bay and outer reefs only.
Ala Moana shoulder high and good.
Diamond Head head high and good.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!