Just in the past few days, the weather has changed a lot.  More cool clouds, more cool nights, and the most amazing sunrises.  These are signs of winter in Hawaii!

I took this photo from the beach.  The red skies after this was amazing.  We were all surfing in awe.  Waves good and nice conditions.  

Then as we left, the clouds changed once again.  I remember in High School one of my friends told me these were swell clouds.  So when you see clouds like this, that means there is a swell coming.  And it’s been true ever since.  

Ramen in Hawaii will cost almost $20 after tax and tip so I prefer eating it at home.  It’s the perfect meal after a surf…

Taking off from the peak like this on your foil is challenging.  First, you need the proper equipment.  I order my Trinx custom foil boards so it will allow me to get into the wave fast.  Second, timing is everything.  If you’re off by a split second, you won’t make it.  Last, once you succeed in a take off like this, the feeling of a chest high wave on a foil is the same feeling of taking off on a 10′ wave with your surfboard.  The adrenaline rush is exactly the same, except you’re going 2x faster on a foil.  So to be able to get the same feeling of a big wave on small days like this, why not?  I think this is why I foil.  The other day I caught this beautiful right from the peak at Bowls and it felt like 10′ Sunset Beach!

Still like summer.  Mia@Bowls…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light trade winds at 10mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!