Two months ago, I tore my MCL.  It was my first knee injury and I haven’t felt pain like that before.  Every step I took hurt.  My doctor gave me the bad news that I won’t be surfing for months.  I was in total denial and all I was thinking about was my Indo surf trip.  No way was I going to miss that.  To start, I had to wear this brace for 3 weeks 24/7, even when I was sleeping!  

I understood that doctors base their observations on an average person, but surfers aren’t average people.  Two months out of the ocean wasn’t an option.  I was determined to get back into the water as soon as possible.  I did a lot of physical therapy on my own.  It hurt, but no pain is no gain.    

When you’re in the ocean, you feel no pain.  And when you’re in the barrel, all you feel is joy.  Right after this wave, I felt all the pain again.  OUCH!  But it was all worth it.

Now it’s 2 months after the injury and I’m at 90%.  Almost ready for Backdoor!

Matsu @ Supersuck…

Good morning 4am.
North shore 3-5′ and good.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light winds so really good morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Every time I get back from a long trip, I fall in love with Hawaii more and more.  It’s just paradise here!  Went surfing with Okazaki-san in the perfect conditions.  The first thing he said when we jumped into the ocean was “wow, beautiful!”

There was nobody out at Bowls this morning.  It was just us riding every single wave that passed by.  We surfed until Okazaki-san’s arms couldn’t paddle anymore.

Looking forward and enjoying the ride.

Okazaki-san was super happy to surf in Hawaii but I don’t think he knew that I was just as happy.  I’m so happy to be back home!

My refrigerator broke so I called the repair man.  He didn’t show up so the only other way was to do it myself.  I didn’t even know where to start?

After researching for a couple hours, I learned so much about appliances and how to test it.  Now I can trouble shoot and fix any refrigerator.  I won’t be calling a repair man anymore.  Save money and do it yourself…  DIY