As for Indonesia, there are pretty much no rules when it comes to boating.  You basically have to trust your boat captain with your life, but that’s something I never do.  When it comes to the ocean, I don’t trust anyone.  That’s why we have to look out for each other.  Sometimes we have to be our own lifesavers.  Carter and I got dropped off at this big crazy barreling right, then the boat left us there.  It was powerful and very shallow so the risk was high.  If something happened to either of us, it would take us at least an hour to paddle back to surf camp.  When we were surfing out there, I didn’t think it was safe at all.  High risk and maybe no return?  It’s those kind of sessions that I feel lucky just to survive.

In the busy city of Kuta, there is a really good goat satay restaurant.   I go there on every trip and just love the taste.  Maybe because the thousands of flies on the raw meat sprinkling flavor to it?  Haha.  Most people I take there see all the flies and never want to try it.

Five dollars for this Indonesia gourmet goat meal.

I never thought goat would be this delicious.

When I was in Shizuoka, Toda-san introduced me to massage therapist named Yosuke-san.  OMG, he was so good!  He worked on my knee and after it felt a thousand percent better.  Magic hands!

Thank you Yosuke-san!  I hope to visit you again in Fuji!  If anyone of you have injuries or simply want your body to feel better, go see Yosuke-san at OLAKINO!  090-6647-9433

Kimura-san 71 Birthday Party:  Dancing and Singing on the White Sandy Beach of Bali.  Photo by Matsukawa.

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light winds so nice morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Packing to come home takes time.  Where you position your boards has to be well thought out.  You’re limited to 50lbs on Hawaiian Airlines and if you go over the weight, you will be charged a lot.  The key is to bring a hand held scale to prevent surprises at the airport.  By the way, one board bag up to 50lbs cost $150 from Hawaii to Japan, and 15,000 yen or $100 from Japan to Hawaii.  Four surfboards in one bag usually works.  

Had a last night dinner with my Wakayama family.  The first time I met Kimura-san, there were only 4 members in his family.  Now, there are 10!  Well, if you add me, that’s 11.  Haha.  So cool to see the family growing and growing!  

I was pretty excited to head back to Hawaii.  This was one of my longest trip ever.  Almost a month living out of a suitcase makes me realize how simple we can live.  As long as I have my magic boards, I could live forever out of a suitcase.

Eight flights, 6 airports, and almost 90 hours of travel time, I’m ready to sleep on my own bed.  As soon as I boarded my flight, I fell asleep and slept all the way back to Hawaii.  

First thing when I got home, I cooked rice and made me a “high tide” Yamari bowl.  Now it’s time to burn off all the calories and plan our next trip.  I can’t wait to get back in the blue ocean!