Woke up early in the morning and went shell hunting.  There is a private beach that is loaded with treasure!  There are so many shells that your feet hurt walking on them.    

Shell hunting is good for the mind and soul.  It’s peaceful, healthy, and happy.  This beach is very very long and there are shells everywhere.  And we are the only ones looking for them.

20 minuets and you can fit up your bag pretty easily.  

Then off to get some breakfast.  Street food in these little villages is my favorite.  You just choose what you want and they put it over hot rice.  

Then wrap it up in paper to go.

This is the cheapest breakfast you will find in the world.  And it’s very healthy and delicious.  

Eat it in the car on the way to the beach.  Then you’re ready for the full day ahead!  Shells and breakfast took only 2 hours of our 24 hour day.

It’s so cool to be traveling with such a good group of surfers.  Everyone is so mellow and calm.  Going with the flow everyday whichever Mother Nature leads us.  That’s the only way.

Now it’s been 6 weeks since my knee injury so I’m at 85%.  A little scared to hit the lip hard but I’m going higher and higher each day.  Looking forward to being back to 100!  

When ever I travel with Carter, we somehow score good waves.  The waves we scored so far will be in our conversations for the rest of our lives.  

We’ve been surfing together since we were 13 years old.  Back then we were super competitive but now we get stoked on each others surfing.  Watching this power turn from the side made me excited!  

I came here to get barreled and my first barrel happened on Day 1.  So far, so good…

Driving in the county traffic…