Ever since I got my first barrel at 12 years old, I fell in love with the feeling. It’s hard to describe but imagine pulling into one and everything goes silent. It’s like time just freezes and you’re at peace. And the longer you’re in the barrel, the better it feels. I think it’s the absolutely best feeling in the world. Chasing barrels was my job for decades which was like a dream. And of all the places I’ve traveled in the world, Indonesia has to be the best. It’s consistent, it’s warm, and everywhere barrels.
We all have busy schedules so we planned our upcoming trip a long time ago. Of course at that time, nobody knew how the waves were going to be, but since the dates are getting closer, we have a better idea. I checked the forecast last night and when I saw that we’re going to be getting two huge back to back swells, my body started to tingle. The first one 8-10′ and the next 10-15′! I’m going to have a hard time sleeping until then. But once we arrive, all I’m going to do is search for the barrel!
