Friday December19日 2025年

THANK YOU KYOTO SURFER….

good morning. one day it’s summer, and the next day, it’s winter. going from tshirt to jacket? what’s going on??? i didn’t even want to get out of bed yesterday morning but i forced myself because i’m the type of person that doesn’t want to miss any action. i was freezing cold with only short pants but drove in the dark 30 minutes up the coast. i pulled up with my 3 board ready to go but the waves were FLAT? eeh? where are you typhoon 12? was i disappointed? no. there is always tomorrow, which is today. i’m going to jump in my car and do the same thing. i have only a few more days here in japan until i go to indonesia. i should be relaxing but that’s like telling a kid not to eat candy. impossible. well, better get going because my batteries are recharged and the power i have inside wants to go everywhere! hope you can keep up… haha…

i had the nicest email and comment from karin down in kyoto. i wanted to thank her for that and also wanted to wish her the best of luck in school, surfing, and happiness! i’m glad to have met you!! keep on surfing!!!
and i also wanted to thank everybody else that sent in comments about my wonderful world video. i’m glad i got to show you how much i enjoy surfing and how happy it makes me. if the whole world could enjoy surfing, we would all be living in a better place. but for now, nothing’s stopping me from living in “My Wonderful World!”
**CLICK HERE FOR KARIN’S BLOG FROM KYOTO….

Today Typhoon 12 Swell….


Today Cold and Small…
Tomorrow? I hope HOT and BIG!!!
Goodnight!

The Karate Kid


yoga is for all ages. here is uncle kirby and little renosuke doing the downward dog in kyoto. classic…

speaking of dogs, what kind of dog is this? it’s the first time i seen one like this. this was back in chiba a month ago….

okinawa is loaded with shells. you just have to know where to look. this spot is secret….

i finally downloaded the photos from the barrels bbq party. this is hitomi-chan who just started surfing. she might look like a sweet innocent girl but don’t let the looks fool you. behind these fists is a girl that has been doing karate for her whole life. she’s black belt and can kick and punch faster than kelly slaters off the lip. i told her that i would take her surfing anytime with me on one condition, she karate chops anybody that drops in on me. and she said yes so you guys better watch out.. haha….
**and last, i want to congratulate Enson Inoue for completing his journey throughout shikoku! awesome job!!!!