today was a little smaller than yesterday so of course it was very crowded.  and the crowd is very interesting to watch.  i sat in the inside watching everyones behavior.  it was very interesting because you can see everything from here.  some people behaving and some people not.  someday i will post the scenarios and you can judge for yourself.  it’s the surfers that haven’t been taught mannerism that are the ones misbehaving.  and they’re usually the ones that don’t last too long out there…

Bruce on a great looking wave!  it was this beautiful!  

my friend saw a shark yesterday, and she saw a monk seal today.  i wonder what she will see tomorrow?  

Grade A+ again for my student because when i say “GO,”  she “GOES!”    i’m super proud of her!  

then went for Round 2 with Nanami-san.  it’s been a year and a half since we surfed.  she didn’t forget a thing!  

this woman is super funny.  all we do is laugh…

the last big swell at Teahupoo, Tahiti.  there was a very close call regarding that orange/yellow boat.  when i first saw it, i got chicken skin.  being a captain myself, i understand the risks of putting your boat in the perfect spot so the photographer can get the photo.  i’ve done it many times and i’ve had some close calls too.  nothing compared to this, but still very dangerous.  so after watching the video, i thought the captain absolutely did the right thing.  it looked like he barely made it over the wave, but he knew exactly what he was doing.  i can see people wondering why the captain didn’t go faster over the wave?  if he did, the boat would have excellerated vertical in the air and somebody would have died.  so purposely, he slowed down to the minimal just so the boat would make it over as gently as possible.  only a captain knows the capability of his boat.  thank goodness nobody got hurt.  anyway, if you see a boat excellerating straight over a wave, that’s the sign of panic.  if you panic, you die.  if you keep calm, you live.  so when you go on a boat, chose your captain wisely.  just because he has a nice boat, it doesn’t mean he knows what he’s doing.

note:  even for calm and experienced captains, close calls like this will humble you. then when you go home, you will thank Mother Ocean for protecting you.  because that’s exactly what happened…

Early birds get the worm…

Good morning 3:40am.
Ala Moana waist with chest high sets and perfect.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm Summer day.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!