once again, everyone thought the waves were going to be small again today but everyone was wrong!  i couldn’t believe how bigger and perfect it was!   it was cleaner and many more waves then the previous days.  and less people too!  lucky guy Malcom on a beauty!

Jeannie Chesser has been surfing really good recently.  she’s doing bigger turns and impressing everyone.  this was a sunrise beauty she rode all the way!

Grade A for this girl today!  she’s a very fast learner…

for the first time in my life, i’ve been changing out and trying different variations of fins.  in the process, i’ve been learning a lot about these little details.  now i finally found the best combination for my twin fin and my board is working 10x better.  it’s crazy how such small changes make a board go from good to great!

ever since this pandemic started, i practically quit drinking.  yes i have a beer or two once in a great while, but my body, mind, and soul doesn’t need it anymore.  i never bought alcohol in a long time so i was wondering how much money i saved?  i’m guessing it’s in the thousands of dollars?

i still like to look at the alcohol selection though.  every bottle reminds me of some point in my life.  some good, some bad, but mostly ugly.  back when i started drinking, nobody really taught me how to drink.  so i thought the more you drank, the cooler you were.  i was totally wrong!  i’ve actually been using my personal experience to educate the youth about drinking.  i tell them that alcohol makes you incoherent which sometimes leads to bad decisions.  so the key it to drink a very little or not drink at all.  and if you do, drink with someone you can trust.  i wish someone told me that when i was 18 years old.  it took me 35 years and lots of bad decisions to figure that out…

This was yesterday.  Yesterday was epic!

Good morning 3:50am.
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!