it’s pretty funny because the last swell was finally dying so everybody was taking a break.  but today, a brand new swell showed up unexpectedly.  better swell direction, better winds, better conditions, and better everything.  the few surfers that were out this morning scored! 

Malcom getting ready for the barrel!  

Dana enjoying the perfect sunrise wave!

then i met my A+ student this afternoon and we went out for Round 2. picture perfect weather, warm water, and amazing rides.  the best Summer ever continues…

i stopped and took some photo of the boys.  i think this is Carter?

I couldn’t figure this guy out.  Looked like Malcom but it wasn’t.

i could recognize Dean from miles away.

and Troy because he always gets the sets.

Lance Hookano came by my house with his ebike.  we always have good talks.  i love this guy because when ever he paddles out to any spot on this island, he regulates.  so if you’re not acting properly, he will yell at you and send you in.  i’ve seen him send in hundreds of guys for the past 35 years.  and the cool thing about it is all the guys i seen him send in, they all deserved it.  so to all you disprectful surfers, be respectful before i tell Lance.  haha…

BIG SET COMING!!!!  A very lovely moment…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana waist with chest high sets. Good.
Diamond Head chest high and fun.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!