a beautiful Saturday morning and it was either surf with 30 surfers and wait my turn? or foil with 15 surfers and not wait my turn? since the swell is almost gone, that was an easy choice.
it doesn’t matter where i go when i have my foil. i just need a small knee high wave to get me started and once i’m up, nobody can stop me. i only stop when i run out of breath. haha.
always good to see the Uncles out having fun every single day. i respect these guys lifestyle so much and i hope i’m doing the same thing when i get to their age.
even though the waves are only waist to chest high, it still feels like i’m taking off on a 10′ wave. i love the feeling of speed!
i passed by Bowls on the way back and it still looked fun.
but with this many guys out, i wouldn’t have had fun today. i needed to get out of the cage and fly again…
Panangalat Island is located right in the middle of the “Playground” area in the Mentawai Islands. right off this island is one of the calmest places to anchor a boat in the Mentawai’s. so i’ve slept right in front of this island many nights. it’s calm, lots of fish, amazing sunsets, millions of stars, and some of the cleanest water in the world. this island is also surrounded by white sand so we’ve taken jogs, walks, and hunted shells many times. not to mention, world class surf breaks all over the place. if you visited here before, you would have probably asked yourself “that would be cool to own this island?” i asked myself that every time i went there!
i tell every surfer that a surf trip to the Mentawai Islands should be on the top of your bucket list. it’s the best surf trip in the world by far. all kinds of waves for everyone. from small fun waves to some of the longest and heaviest barrels in the world. i’ve clocked in a 23 second barrel once. nobody believes me, but i don’t care. once you go there, you will become a believer. i’ve been on 20 or so boat trips in the world and more than half was in the Mentawai’s. will i go again? 100% for sure!
Waves around the island include Kandui, Baby Kandui, Pistols, Rifles, Four Bobs, Karingbat Left and Malibu’s. and i heard later this year they will open a new airport nearby so it will accessible by a 25 minute boat ride. until now, you had to do a 12 hour overnight channel crossing that will make the strongest watermen throw up. but once you get there, it’s paradise!
check out this video and your mouth will start to water. all you need is $1M for a 99 year lease to this island all to yourself. if you decide to buy it, please invite me. haha.
Good morning 3:40am.
Ala Moana waist with chest high sets. Good!
Diamond Head chest high and fun.
Light trade winds at 10-15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the ocean.
Have a wonderful day!
